Orchids can be multiplied in two ways: from seeds and through plant division. It is not always easy to grow a gate from seed indoors, and particular considerations must be made. In the wild, orchids form a symbiotic relationship with a specific kind of fungus called mycorrhiza.
The orchid seed is quite tiny; one pod can have millions of them. A “regular” plant’s seed has food stores that will provide it the energy to grow to a size where it could photosynthesize food, but an orchid seed does not. As a byproduct of its metabolism, the mycorrhiza creates some carbohydrates that the orchid seed can consume as it grows.
a certain mycorrhiza, and if the seeds do not land where this fun gus is when they are expelled from the pod, germination will not succeed.
Since the beginning of orchid cultivation, humans have attempted to germinate seed, but this has typically failed due to a lack of understanding of the mycorrhiza. It is possible to try this, but results are inconsistent. Some success was reported when the seed was scattered around the parent plant, suggesting that a suitable mycorrhiza was present in the compost. the present
Orchids are grown from seeds in a laboratory setting. A flask of orchid seedlings is shown in the image on the left; the flasks are not airtight, and the stopper has tiny holes, but these are covered or blocked with cotton wool to stop spores from getting in. The conical flask has been replaced by a cylindrical flask.
jars with broad necks and screw lids that make it simple to extract the plants without breaking the flask (middle pic). The image to the right shows two stages of orchid seedling development; initially, the seedlings would be put in a communal tray closely together to aid in the as they adjust to their new environment,
the ecosystem; when they develop, they are transplanted as demonstrated. They are either planted in perlite, as illustrated, or a small-grade bark mixture of compost.
In vitro, which literally translates to “in glass,” is a technique used to propagate seed. This is because the seed is germinated in glass jars or flasks. The creation of replacement hormones that are dispersed in a gel has overcome the mycorrhizal problem. The seed is seeded on the gel, which is placed on the bottom of a flask. The flask is sealed, put in a controlled-temperature, controlled-light environment, and allowed to germinate. While the procedure is straightforward, it must be done under sterile conditions since, should a single fungus spore enter a flask, it would develop more quickly than the orchid seed, leading to failure in that particular instance.
tive pressure inside the cabinet, which results in a mild air current blowing into the operator’s face to keep outside air from entering the cabinet. (You can also read this book for more information)
multiplication of orchids. By using the cells from the growing tip to create clones of the plant, a technique known as micropropagation is utilised to create commercial orchids.)
STRATEGIES FOR PROPAGATION
There are three methods for spreading your plants. The simplest is to
You might be able to get back-bulbs to sprout and grow these on, or you might grow them on keikis, or immature plantlets. If you feel that your plants are too large to handle while being replanted, you can then choose whether or not to split them.
The distance between the pseudobulbs on the rhizome, which is an overground stem, varies from genus to genus or from species to species in orchids. While cymbidiums have very short rhizomes that provide the appearance of a cluster, cattleyas typically have a few centimetres between ‘bulbs’. When dividing your plants, it’s crucial to keep in mind not to make the divisions too small. There should be at least four pseudobulbs in each division. The cause
The leafless back-bulbs that are removed when re-potting and cleaning up your plants are used in this manner to propagate new plants. Candidates for this procedure include Cattleya, Dendrobium, Cymbidium, and Coelogyne. In order to maintain humidity, the Cymbidium and Coelogyne “bulbs” are placed in a container on top of some damp compost and covered with a plastic bag. Place the plant somewhere bright but shaded and wait; it can take several months before anything happens. The leafless canes of dendrobiums that produce canes can be divided into portions with three to four nodes apiece. Then, they are placed in a tray on a bed of damp sphagnum moss, sealed in a plastic bag, and handled as usual
Plantlets produced by Dendrobiums and some Phalaenopsis species can be withdrawn and potted on to develop into new plants. The Dendrobiums, especially nobile and kingianum, will easily produce numerous plantlets or keikis. It is stated that if your Dendrobiums produce an excessive number of keikis, this is a sign of poor culture. The plant makes keikis, which are developed from the same bud as flowers but are produced instead of blossoms, but if the plant is watered too soon before the bloom is fully completed, it will convert into leaves. The plant will develop vegetatively and be a “happy” plant. Where it will be in the wild
if it faces difficulty, it will bloom so that pollinators can fertilise the seeds it produces, preserving the species. It is typically mollycoddled during cultivation and grows well. But it won’t blossom if it experiences no adversity. You need to stop watering, put the plant in direct sunlight for many weeks, and then wait to water it again until the flower bud is fully formed or even open. To successfully grow orchids, it is best to mimic what happens in the natural by waiting until the new season’s growth is well formed and the new roots are developing and actively seeking water.
When dividing or repotting plants, specifically, plant hygiene is a crucial component of culture. Tools, pots, your workspace, and your hands should all be clean. Sterilize everything using Physan. Aways happy orchids growing.
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