The String of Hearts is a wonderful and adorable hanging plant that is indigenous to Zimbabwe, Swaziland, and South Africa. This exquisite succulent has captured the hearts of many collectors thanks to its dark green leaves with variegated silver markings or in cream, pink, and green heart-shaped, patterned leaves. Make sure to hang this plant high so you can see how stunning it can be, especially when it begins to cascade out of the pot like a waterfall. It can grow up to 2 to 3 inches tall and has purple-toned stems that can be anywhere from 3 to 9 feet long.
Ceropegia woodii, sometimes known as the “String of Hearts plant,” is simple to cultivate and spread. These tiny, heart-shaped leaves on this quickly expanding vine-type plant are just too adorable. The vines will continue to grow until you cut them or they reach the ground. This plant is sometimes referred to as rosary vine plant because it has the ability to produce white tubers that resemble balls along the vine. When completely dried up, like a succulent, The String of Hearts prefers bright light and water. It has some issues with Canadian winters, but overall, it performs well in environments with low humidity. If you are able to give it extra light over the winter, it will benefit much from your care.
Over the course of the summer growing season, this plant has easily gotten to be six feet long. Care for and sharing a string of hearts with pals is so much fun and it grows so easily. String of Hearts is the plant for you if you want something you don’t have to care about, something you can cut and grow again, and something that looks great hanging on a shelf.
Light: String of Hearts tolerates some amount of direct sunlight and even quite a deal of it. Mine is 4 or 5 feet across from my South West window and receives some afternoon direct sunlight. I try to increase its light in the winter using a grow bulb to increase the number of hours it is illuminated.
Water: The fact that it’s really simple to determine when to water String of Hearts is what I LOVE most about taking care of it. Examine the leaves that are close to the plant’s top. Do they seem fat? similar to tiny, luscious berries? Your plant does not then require water. Give the earth a good bath if they are spongy or flattened and the soil is dry. Look to the older hearts for hints because the newer ones nearer the ends of the strings will be flatter. When it’s prepared, give it a thorough soak until water begins to drain from the pot’s bottom. Make sure to throw away any water that gathers in the saucer or cache pot. In the event that the As the plant receives less light, you might want to cut back on watering.
Soil: I treat this plant very similarly to a succulent or peperomia in that it requires a soil mixture with good drainage. My plant appears to be content in a mixture of potting soil and cactus soil with some additional perlite added for good measure.
humidity.the string of hearts looks fantastic under typical household humidity. No additional hassle is necessary. During propagation, you might want to raise the humidity levels. Otherwise, handle the plant as you would a succulent. I’m fine with dry air.
fertilizer.Throughout the summer, I’ll be fertilising my string of hearts every couple weeks with a normal houseplant fertiliser. A fertiliser for succulents or cacti will also work well. I don’t fertilise this plant during the winter because it isn’t actively growing for me at my house. You might want to fertilise if you live somewhere where your string of hearts plant will keep growing through the winter.
Toxicity . Ceropegia woodii is not hazardous, however it is preferable to prevent curious children from eating the plants in your home, especially the newer ones because you don’t know whether they have been sprayed.
problems and troubleshooting with this plant
There aren’t many problems with this plant in general. Although it is robust, strong, and hearty, I have overcome a number of obstacles.
Leaves falling off: There are a variety of reasons why plants lose their leaves. Usually, it’s because of problems with the roots, stems, or chronically dry soil, which prevents them from getting water to them. Long-term dryness will cause your plant to lose leaves since it will be unable to moisten them. It may also lose leaves if your plant is overwatered and the roots suffer harm or decay.
Small leaves or sparse stems: Your plant probably requires more hours of light if it produces more vines than leaves or sparse strings. It won’t invest energy in developing foliage that it can’t sustain. I’ve noticed that this plant can suffer with the short days throughout the winter in Canada. I use a grow lamp as supplemental lighting, and it has made a huge difference.
Balding on top: Many individuals don’t like the way this plant appears when the leaves only develop on the vines and not on the pot’s top. If the pot’s top is not exposed to sunlight, this will eventually happen. Make sure the plant doesn’t have a pot that is too deep. In order to get sunlight, the leaves should be over the rim. Ensure that the plant is not suspended too high. You may be at risk of going bald if the window’s light does not reach the top of the pot. But don’t worry, propagation makes quick work of fixing it! Look below.
How to Make Water Propagation of the String of Hearts
Severed the threads, then take the stem’s leaves that are closest to the cut end and discard them. Place for approximately 3–4 weeks in water. You keep the water fresh and oxygenated, make sure to change it once a week. You can put in the ground once the roots are 2 to 3 inches long. Keep the soil from fully drying up for about two weeks as the roots were used to providing water so that they can adapt. Sharing rooted cuttings with a pal through water propagation is enjoyable!
The String of Hearts Butterfly Propagation Method.
Water propagation is easy and enjoyable, but the butterfly approach is the most effective if the objective is to take a few strands and create a lovely, fresh, and full plant. You can see how I did this with my variegated string of hearts plant below, but I’ve also successfully done it with my normal plant.
Simply cut the strand between leaf pairs to create numerous little, single-node cuttings. Put the cuttings on the soil that has already been watered, and then place the entire pot inside a bag. Put it in bright light and seal it up to add humidity. Although it grows best under a grow lamp, if it’s summer and you can place it on a sunny window ledge, you’ll have good results. Just be careful not to let it become too warm. In warm, sunny, and humid conditions, the leaves will soon grow roots
To prevent the entire piece from growing mould or decomposing, open the bag every few days to let in fresh air. If necessary, sprinkle the soil with water to re-moisten it; nevertheless, you don’t want it to be overly wet. It’s time to take it out of the bag once you are certain that it has taken root AND you notice fresh leaves and vines emerging. The challenging phase now starts. Although you want it to dry out between waterings, you don’t want those fresh, delicate roots to shrivel up because they are still quite shallow in the pot. After the soil dries out, shallow, regular sips are the best way to keep it moist. You can switch it once it has firmly taken root in the pot.I submerged the little leaves at the tips of my cuttings since they were too small to attempt butterfly propagation. I’ll put them in the container after their roots have grown longer.
A complete harvest for the String of Hearts plant
.If you hang your hearts, make sure the plant’s top receives illumination rather than just the strings. If not, it will become thinner. Do not be alarmed if the top of your plant appears thin. Simply propagate a few strings to add back into the pot, OR spiral a string around the top, to fill it back up. There, it will eventually establish roots and produce more threads. This plant requires very little maintenance; once, I left mine alone for two weeks while I was gone, and it was still healthy when I got back. I heartily endorse this lovely.
The String of Hearts plant thrives in terra cotta pottery, and I’ve been supplementing light with a grow lamp during the winter months in order to give it more hours of light each day rather than more light overall.