Guide on how to care and grow orchid coelogyne corymbosa (orchidaceae)
This is a naturally occurring orchid of epiphytic, evergreen plants that can be found over much of Malaysia, China, and India. The Himalayan varieties are best used as houseplants and demand chilly indoor conditions. The Malaysian varieties, which frequently grow larger, can tolerate a little wider range of temperatures. There are several species and a few hybrids that were created many years ago and are still prized in cultivation.
This genus’ primary colouring is immaculate white with a lavishly ornamented lip; the flowers frequently have a nice scent. Green and light tawny brown are also included in the colour spectrum. The varyingly sized plants produce green pseudobulbs that can range in height from less than 2.5 cm (1 in) to over 15 cm (6 in), are plump and lustrous when young, and wrinkled when old. Some very wonderful plants, perfect for windowsill culture or small gardens, lie in between these two extremes.
greenhouses. They all hold a pair of long, oval leaves, and the majority of them develop flower spikes from the tender growth. The flower spikes can have a chain of up to two dozen blossoms or they can grow long and drooping with an exceedingly short, single-flowered spike. Late winter and early spring are when coelogynes blossom, and they are all worth growing.
Growing and resting periods for coelogynes are clearly specified. The pseudobulbs normally experience some normal shrivelling during dormancy, but they should swell back up as the plant starts to grow again. Coelogyne cristata, which can reach enormous proportions, is one of the species that is perfect for developing into specimen plants. Huge plants of this species are frequently seen at shows throughout the spring, supporting a frothing mass of effervescent, exquisite white flowers.
A cool to moderate temperature
Depending on the species, grow in pots of 7–15 cm (3-6 in). As the new growth starts to sprout starting in the spring, water and feed frequently. As winter draws near, watering should be reduced. Keep in the shade during the summer .
light needed for this plant
This species thrives in environments with just artificial lighting, making big terrariums and greenhouses ideal environments for it. The amount of sunshine is indicated by the colour of the leaves. If they start to turn yellow, the light is too intense right now, the orchid is overheating, and you need to move it to a darker spot for a bit, or at the very least, bring it deeper into the room and place it on shelves or a table near the window. The plant won’t feel any better if the sun doesn’t hit it directly. This window sill’s excessively dark tone and persistent failure to bloom indicate that the sun is too weak and the location
Although the sun is usually shining brilliantly in their natural habitat, where they live, the air temperature is always moderate, ranging from 12 to 24 °C with a drop to 2-16 °C at night. It is unnecessary to replicate the enormous diurnal temperature range that exists in nature because it has little effect on the development of orchids and does not significantly speed up their growth or encourage flowering.
Humidity needed to this plant
In nature, the air’s relative humidity almost never drops below 70% and rises to 85–95% at night. High humidity necessitates continuous ventilation of the plant-holding area because moist, stale air is a favourable environment for the spread of numerous bacterial and fungal illnesses.
best substrate needed
Coelogyne corymbosa can be grown in plastic pots of light colours, as dark pots in the sun are heated, and an unfavourable medium is created inside. Substrate, growing media, and repotting: Blocks work best for greenhouses, terrariums, and orchidaria. Very air-permeable combinations with a predominance of sizable fragments of bark are advised for use as substrate.
It is preferable to transfer the orchid only when absolutely essential because this species reacts poorly to damaged roots. For instance, if you water it with regular tap water, which has a pH of between 7.2 and 7.8, over time, typically for two years, a favourable pH of the substrate (5.5 to 6.5) will also jump to this index, and the orchid will be unable to absorb more beneficial substances, such as iron, which will cause it to begin losing its colour in the leaves, which is yellow. Additionally, salts build up in the substrates from fertiliser or when the quality of the water is poor, which the orchid can’t quickly (or generally) absorb and process, reaching a specific level.
The orchid will lose all of its roots over night if they induce a severe root burn (shrink). Sphagnum moss, which is spread on top of the bark, is a suitable solution because it acts as a filter, retaining some of the hazardous contaminants, and if it is regularly changed, the main mixture can be changed much less frequently. The period right after the orchid flowers, up until the new pseudobulb is fully developed and has lost the poten
watering needed for this plant
The illumination that impacts it has a major impact on how frequently plants should be watered. Water the plant to keep the substrate at least somewhat damp if it is suitable for active growth (new leaves, peduncles, root tips, etc.). Water is always required for an orchid to grow because it is involved in almost all metabolic reactions within the plant. Since development slows (or stops) when illumination intensity decreases, watering must be decreased.
Water is not required because there is no growth. A well-watered orchid that is not growing will sit for months with damp roots and rhizomes before eventually starting to decompose. In this instance, waterlogging will hurt the plant more than an order of magnitude more than proper drying.
When this species of orchid is actively growing, it is treated every third watering with 1/2 the fertiliser concentration recommended on the package. In addition to the customary root top dressing, it is also advised to create a foliar dressing by spraying a very diluted fertiliser on the plant’s exterior. It is ideal to alternate between these two feeding techniques for the orchid. The ideal nutrient is fertiliser with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, such as NPK = 3-3-3 or 8-8-8. If you don’t have access to such fertiliser, give the orchid fertiliser with a high phosphorus content during the start of the growing season (when new shoots appear), then fertiliser with a greater nitrogen content just after flowering. It is advised to rinse the substrate every three to six months to avoid salinization.